I am standing in the middle of the livestock barn at Pond Hill, our go-to farm of choice, watching small birds swoop from rafter to feed trough, and back again. Sunlight is wavering across the hay floor and the birds make faint black shadows as they fly. The sheep are out to pasture. The geese are tormenting people somewhere else. The barn is quiet, save the flapping of wings, and it makes me think of a novel, though I'm not sure which one.
It makes Noah, who is half-sitting in the tire swing that dangles in the middle of the barn, think of something very, very different.
"The cows aren't here."
He is staring at the large empty stall where Farmer Jimmy's cows come in from the fields. I crane my neck to see the fields on the other side of the barn, away from the sheep that are gathered around squash treats left by the ever popular farm rocket. No cows.
I have often thought about what I would say if one of my kids ever noticed a thinning of animals at Pond Hill. I've thought about the cycle of life conversations or the blessings of a free-range small farm, or about what friends who raised chickens told their own children. And yet, I felt completely panicked in that moment. Maybe it was because he noticed, and I didn't. Maybe it was the way he spoke so softly, as if telling me a secret he didn't want to be true.
Or maybe it was because I had just purchased a beef roast from their freezer.
Gathering Noah up in my arms and resting my chin on the top of his head, we stood together, in silence, looking at the space where the gently brown cattle normally stood, hopping to get a feed treat from passersby.
"I still love it here," my sweet boy said later, as we drove down the curvy dirt road, away from the fields and farm store.
A few weeks ago, I saw the movie Farm Inc. I've been wanting to write about it everyday since, but there was so much in it that I couldn't get a handle on how to explain with any justice what I saw. The image of that day in the barn has stayed with me, however, asking in its own way to be written too. And standing beside my husband on Sunday as he made applesauce from freshly picked apples, I realized that these moments in our days-- the ones where food intersects with other parts of our lives-- are the best way I can relate why that movie struck me so.
I walked into Food Inc. knowing, in many ways, what to expect. In college, some of my best friends were vegan and I was a vegetarian and we all had a penchant for watching documentaries that exposed the underbelly of things like enormous dairy farms or chicken houses. And in some ways, Food Inc. was like a refresher course in the horrors of mass market farming.
In some ways. Mostly, it grabbed my attention on much different levels than it would have in my angry, justice-rallying college years, even with the fact that conditions for livestock have plummeted dramatically from the awful movies I'd watched just 10 years ago. Sitting through a whirlwind tour of meat and poultry production-- as well as a mind-boggling and straight-from-a-Hollywood-type-conspiracy world of corn and soybeans and greed-driven corporations in cahoots with the government-- I felt like I was witnessing the core of what's gone array in our culture.
Food is so accessible to us-- in drive through windows, isles of the grocery store-- and it can be purchased for so very cheap. Big businesses in the industry all seem to share the common believe that people want food that is inexpensive, so their dollars are freed up to purchase more important things.
More important things?
Please know on the spectrum of the whole foods movement, my family is not anywhere near perfect. We devour z-bar granolas like they are going out of style. We eat pita chips from a package and we covet Trader Joe's peanut butter cups. We get pizza from a restaurant in town enough that they know our orders when we walk in the door. And when I went to Food Inc., I could not let the smell of movie buttered popcorn go unnoticed. A habit I doubt I'll ever break, by the way.
All that being said, we do eat as locally as possible, through CSA shares and frozen Pond Hill meats. We frequent the farmer's markets, try as best we can to eat with the seasons, and freeze summer goodness as treats to last throughout the root vegetable months. Leaving the movie theater that night, I felt a renewed call to pay attention to what we put in our mouths-- but not just because of the nutritional value.
We spend time at farms in our area because there is so much simple fun to be had,
and also, because seeing my children make connections from farm to table (or farm ovens to mouths) is something I take great joy in witnessing.
Also:: I want to be aware of the act of eating. I want our mealtime- often harried because I (shamefully admitting here) almost always make meals for J and I and separate meals for the kids-- to be a central and sacred part of family life. I want to feel gratitude for the food I am preparing, and more importantly, I want to feel gratitude (and see the face I'm thanking) for the hands that helped raise and harvest said food, because after all, isn't that the basis for community at the deepest of levels?
As Justin bopped around the kitchen chiseling away at the huge pile two bushels of apples creates, I felt the warmth of family and food. Noah was dancing to the radio's beat as he worked the apple peeler. Max was ready-steady with the food processor, waiting to hit on when the next bunch of steamed apples were ready. Lizzie was perched on a stool, ready to lick cinnamon from the wooden spoon.
The next day, as the kids and I sat around the lunch table, we talked about the experience of picking the apples. We laughed about Noah and Justin's hand versus apple peeler race and about how tiny the wild apples were when we peeled those too. Our food had a story. And we ate it with the kind of love and feeling that comes with a family's shared history.
Which brings me right back to that empty stall at Pond Hill Farm. How can we expect to feel reverence for food when we have no idea where most of it comes from anymore? Even though I have long bought organic meats, I'm not sure I felt any sort of empathy or connection to the animal that had died so that I could make beef stew. But now, now that I have a relationship with our local farm, now that I see these animals several times a week, I feel the weight of their absence. I understand the responsibility I have to them-- to be humbled and grateful for the food I am putting on my family's table; to see our meals as more than just a pit stop between activities.
I know it can feel overwhelming, jumping on the locavore train. Food Inc. did a beautiful job of giving simple, everyday opportunities to change the way we eat-- and thereby change the way corporations do business, because the reality is, there are so many families so focused on trying to get by, that the McDonalds drive through truly feels like their only option (another topic altogether, I know).
Later this week, I'm going to offer up some of my favorite, simple, and very, very inexpensive fall recipes.
They are all freezer-friendly and can be stretched a mile, many adapted from my staple cookbooks like Feeding the Whole Family, The Art of Simple Food, and Moosewood Cookbook, books I've learned about through friends that changed the way my family has dinner.
Here's our applesauce recipe-- the easiest thing on the planet, but so darn good.
Justin's applesauce
Peel and core apples.
Steam apples in a steamer basket in a pot of water until nice and tender
Mash (if you like chunky sauce, which my clan is very clear they do not) or stick in the food processor and blend until smooth.
Optional: add cinnamon to taste.
Here's a few other website resources to check out::
The Food Inc. Movie website
Eat Well
Local Harvest
Slow Food USA
And other good books on the subject include::
Coming Home to Eat: The Pleasures and Politics of Local Foods, by Gary Paul Nabhan
Anything by Michael Pollan *** Including his new junior edition of the Omnivore's Dilemma for Kids-- which just came out on October 15...Noah will be starting it this week.
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbera Kingsolver (I'm told, again and again, that this book is a life-changer. I haven't read it yet, but my friend Sus raved about it, and well, that's enough to include it here).